Looking for a Catamaran Cruising Blog?

If you found this blog via a link from a cruising site ~ we did cruise Mexico on our Ocean 49 cat for a season. See the first text box on the right for links to our preparations, trip down Baja, life in Mexico, cruising and trip back up to SoCal. Unfortunately we are back to the grind in the USA...

Showing posts with label Baja Road Trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baja Road Trip. Show all posts

Sunday, September 7, 2008

A Short Driving Day and Back in The Sea

Today we only drove about 3 hours, from Guerrero Negro to Santa Rosalia.
The drive took us from the cool, foggy and breezy Pacific Ocean to the hot, sticky and muggy Sea of Cortez.
Hmmmmmm... Guerrero Negro is sounding pretty good right now.
But then again, there are Hot Dogs Exquisitos in Santa Rosalia!
And due to Tropical Storm Lowell, as much as we would like to, we can't stay in Guerrero Negro until winter...

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Fifth Day of Driving All Day...

Drive up, drive down.
That is what we are doing.
Driving.
Driving all day.
Drive, drive, drive.
Putting 2000 miles on my car in a week.
And pretty much on a two-lane road.
We are on our way back down Baja ~ all is fine ~ all safe and now have Dave and Kellie of "Sweet Lorraine" with us.
Will post all the fun parts of the driving and photos when we get back to the boat.
And now back to driving.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Baja Road Trip Book ~ A Quick Easy Read!

Ann Hazard is famous with Baja cruisers and Baja ex-pats for her cooking books, "Cooking With Baja Magic" and "Cooking With Baja Magic Dos", which both include wonderful recipes, information on the places and people the recipes come from and stories of her travels.

John found her novel, "Cartwheels in the Sand" up in the book exchange ~ a signed copy, no less...

If you have ever done a Baja road trip, this will remind you of your trip (except for the characters ~ the didn't remind me of anyone)!
The descriptions of the road, the views, the places, the restaurants, the Pemex stations, the people and the atmosphere are right on!

The story follows four women doing month-long road trip camping in a motorhome. If you can get past some of the crap the women discuss and the cattiness, it's a good, quick read that will "take you there".

So Mom, Bob and Nancy, if you are missing our "Baja Road Trips" we had SO much fun on... here ya go!

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Baja Road Trip Photos

Breakfast stop at Mama Espinosa's ~ great as always!
And many memories of prior visits...
Including one time with my parents when I was about 10!A little bit of Dad is here near the sign...

Always interesting on the road!








My home-made wine glass...
There are many, many uses for water bottles ~ recycling is good.Dinner at Malarrimo and Jim was happy to find not just one, but two Sierra Nevada bottles!The fountain at Malarrimo where a little more of my Dad is.The beautiful mission at San Ignacio.Our new favorite breakfast place in San Ignacio.



Great omeletes!





Then the find of the day, Casa Leree!With it's beautiful courtyard and garden.On the back gate: "Until this point (in your life), the mill (has ground your fate). (Now) each one to his own road." The lake and volcano at San Ignacio.Our second find of the day ~ the almost completed new eco-tourist hotel overlooking the volcanos.












And then the dreaded grade from hell...
Which never looks quite as bad in photos as it does in real life...Hora feliz at Las Casistas in Santa Rosalia.We love the room decor and view!












Thunderheads forming out over the Sea.And the incredible "hot dog exquisitos"!Which are now called "hot dog chayuta" or "chayulta" or some name, but it will always be "exquisitos" to us and all the cruisers!

The beautiful church at Santa Rosalia, designed by Gustav Eiffel.










The town square where we were treated to ballet folklorico and music!One of the many, many scrap metal piled high trucks we saw heading North.These are all the old vehicles we used to see squished in the desert!

Getting close to Puerto Escondido.And what we found on our deck when we returned to the boat!He was a little dried out, but I tossed him back into the water just in case...

Another great trip down Baja!

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Baja Road Trip ~ Day 3 ~ Santa Rosalia to La Paz

Enjoyed a leisurely morning at the beautiful Las Casistas Hotel watching the sun rise over our toes.
You don't even have to get out of bed to see the sunrise here...Made our coffee, checked weather, read some, took showers and slowly packed up.

Drive, drive, drive along the coast and towards Punta Chivato, Mulege and Concepcion Bay.
All the palapa houses are gone at Playa Santispac!
We had heard the Ejido made them all leave and they want to put a hotel or resort there.
It just doesn't look the same...
Lost all of it's charm...

Kept going and drove in to Loreto.
Wow, has Loreto changed...
Not really to our liking either.
It just seemed too squished together, no interesting places to stay along the water and the motels in town had no center courtyard or area to park off the street.
So we decided to continue down the road.

We went in to Puerto Escondido to check out the hotel at Tripui RV Park.
It has been beautifully re-done since the devastating fire that wiped out the RV Park.
And they are charging for it too...
$120 plus tax a night - YIKES!
And after paying $60 at Santa Rosalia...
And $47 at Guerrero Negro.
So once again, continued on down the road.

Drive, drive, drive over the mountains.
Watched out for semi trucks that seem to slide into our lane a lot.
Watched out for goats and cows.
And kept going in to La Paz arriving before 6:00 pm!

Back to the dirty boat, with the 4" of marine sanctuary growing on the bottom (which we had surgically removed today), back to hot weather, to slowly unloading the lowrider.
John was waiting for us and joined us for dinner ~ early to bed and OH SO HAPPY to be back in our own bed!

Monday, July 7, 2008

Baja Road Trip ~ Day 2 ~ Guerrero Negro to Santa Rosalia

After lovely, lovely uninterrupted sleep except for my bladder and being too hot in the middle of the night and someone snoring and someone moving over to the spare bed then moving back after few minutes ~ what was that anyway, sleep walking? until 6:45 this morning, we got up!

And with my really great organizational skills, we had all the coffee makings in one bag, which included the coffee bean grinder, the french press and our two cups oops forgot a spoon for stirring and removing the excess grinds ~ no worries, tear a page out of our travel book and scoop with that so enjoyed our coffee while reading and lounging too bad I didn't use my really great organizational skills when we were packing the truck so I could have some vino easily accessible...

Checked out and started the drive, drive, drive thing across the Vizcaino desert.
Not too much to see here, but there is an noticable change in the cactus that grows when you go very slighly up in altitude.

We decided to have a late breakfast in San Ignacio and check the nice gift shop / Damiana shop / T-shirt shop for a blue rimmed wine glass for the rest of our trip beats the bottom of a water bottle or the cheap plastic water glass I am using at the moment..., so turned right along the date palm lined rio into the small town of San Ignacio.

We parked at the central town square and noticed a new restaurant right across from the mission. We sat outside with a nice breeze blowing, beautiful trees shading us with an incredible view of the beautiful mission AND had a great breakfast!

Then we walked around the square and I wanted to look at a building I had photographed in the past - turned out to be the find of the trip!
It was an old house, turned guest house in the 1800's, still a guest house with a spectacular garden, complete with a three page typed and laminated "self-tour" of the garden. We walked the garden, pet the cat, pet the dog and were amazed.
What a cool find!
And on top of it they rent rooms ~ I will post pics and link the website later, but what fun we had there!
They also have a gallery of art for sale by local artists, which included some of the owner's photographs, a book store and the owner's own library you can look through.
We spent about an hour with Juanita (actually a gringa named Jane, but the locals call her Juanita), learning the history of the house, the history of the plants and about life in San Ignacio over the years.
Way Cool!
I love when we find someplace new that is old... why did we never find this place before?

Uh oh, now it's 1:00 and the gift shop I wanted to go to is closed for siesta, so it's plastic wine glass again tonight!

And then we found a place that is new that will be really cool in a few months ~ a hotel out by Volcan Tres Virgenes.
After we left San Ignacio we started along the mesa towards the dreaded Cuesta de Infierno and saw a new hotel sign pointing off into the desert.
Jim asked if I wanted to check it out, and I replied, "Yes I do", so he turned the lowrider Dodge Dakota around off the road carefully (remember this truck is 2wd vs. the other truck we own - a 4wd and the volcanic rocks are sharp!) and we drove down a very newly paved road and found construction in progress at a "eco-tourist cabana style" place on a hilltop with commanding views of the volcanos and desert. Jesus, one of the builders told us the area was known for big horn sheep and deer. The views from the rooms and soon to be completed restaurant were beyond beautiful. I can picture us sitting on one of the deck's with our afternoon wine / beer looking out over the desert for sheep...
Another find!

Then down the hill from hell - wow was that easy going down!
Not so scary when you are on the inside and can't be pushed off into thin air...

And back to the Sea of Cortez!

Arranged for a room at Las Casitas ~ room number 5 which we have been in at least two times before.

And now I have wireless internet, chilled chardonnay out of a plastic water glass, a sleeping husband on the bed next to me who is going to be starving if I don't wake him up to walk to dinner, a beautiful view of the Sea and the pangas heading out to squid fish, a view of Isla Tortuga where Jim caught 8 dorado in 15 minutes when we crossed from Santa Rosalia to San Carlos on "Thistle" in May of 2000, and dinner of "Hot Dogs Exquisitos" to look forward to!!!

Pics and link info to our finds for the day to follow!

Baja Road Trip ~ Day 1 ~ Ventura, Alta California to Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur

Up early ~ in fact I was awake before 2:00...
Alarm was set for 2:30 ~ yes a.m. ~ yuk.
Put the rest of the crap in the car and Jim's truck was now officially a lowrider.
We left Ventura Harbor and got on the freeway at 3:45 am.
No traffic!
As we got into LA there was a tiny bit of traffic, certainly nothing to ever slow us down, just something to make us wonder where the hell are these people going at 4:30 on a Sunday morning.
It became clear when the traffic went back to nada after the airport...

Crossed the border after three hours and OH JOY, they changed the drive to the toll road ONCE AGAIN.
I hate Tiajuana.
I hate Tiajuana.
I hate Tiajuana.
Figured it out after 10 minutes and on our way to the toll road.
No problems whatsoever between the tiolet of Tiajuana and Ensenada for all of you that are "scared to death" of that section.

My suggestions on how to get thru the "dangerous TJ to Ensenada drive"?
Drive during the day ~ early morning is the best, as the thugs and drug lord employees are still sleeping off the night before's party.
Drive a normal vehicle that no one else would want ~ such as a lowrider blue Dodge Dakota, not a black Cadillac Escalade or a black Ford Excursion with blacked out windows.
Don't stop ~ keep driving and get South away from the sleazy border towns as soon as possible.
And don't let a few instances of violence keep you from living...

So drive, drive, drive.
Easy military checkpoints, as they seem to only be searching the North-bound vehicles.
YIPEE - means our beer, wine and boat part stash is safe...
Past San Quintin as it was still early.
Down into El Rosario to Mama Espinosa's, where we had an excellent breakfast and said hi to some of my Dad's ashes.
Still early, so drive, drive, I took a little nap, poor Jim as he has to continue to drive, drive, drive, through the beautiful boulder fields of Catavina where I woke up.
We kept seeing semi's heading North full of scrap metal and old car parts.
We have not seen ONE old beat up hunk of totalled car in the desert yet ~ they have cleaned them all up!
We used to see hundreds of totalled cars along the way ~ none, nada now.
So we are trying to figure out how we can make a living on picking up tire scraps and old tires and selling them... as they are still plentiful.

Drive across the desert to Guerrero Negro ~ 13 hours total and no traffic, no problems, no road construction ~ I think Sundays are the day to go.
Stayed at the same place we stayed with my Mom a couple years back - El Carocol or something.
Walking distance to Malarrimo, so dinner there ~ we each enjoyed grouper in a Mayan BBQ sauce.
Said hi to some more of my Dad's ashes at Malarrimo ~ the area we had scattered some was under a whale statue which is now a fountain, so he is being recycled.
Slept GREAT and for a long time...
Pictures to follow!

P.S. Had to cut the bottom of a water bottle off yesterday to make a wine glass... Don't tell Nancy or she will be insulted that I was drinking some of her nice wine out of the bottom 3" of a used water bottle...
I guess it is better than just slugging it out of the bottle - right?